A towering waterfall set amidst an ephemeral landscape, evoking the Gorges du Verdon, a famous canyon with multiple waterfalls located in the south of France, was elaborately recreated under the vault of the Grand Palais as the backdrop for Chanel's Spring/Summer 2018 presentation at Paris @womensfw.

This season, the designer writes a story in aquatic tones. An iridescent rainbow palette, scintillating gold and silver echoing the reflections of the sun and the moon on the water's surface, hazy aqua prints in blue and white, luxuriant greens, delicate pinks and vibrant shades imbued with the energy of nature, all envelop the Spring-Summer silhouette.

Defined by wide shoulders, described as "tumbling" by Karl Lagerfeld, or by ailerons, the structured line is softened by an ethereal fluidity. From Lurex tweed to crushed-smooth silk, from chiffon to lace and the richly embroidered drops of water, each time it's a question of play between light and water. Play that touches the materials too: leather is partnered with tweed on bra tops and mini-skirts, tweed patchworks swathe dresses in bold colours. Dresses and wide jackets come in woven tweed extended with fringes that quiver like tall aquatic plants while coat-dresses flow with shimmering Lurex threads. The suit jacket is paired with cropped trousers in organic tones, with a geometrically stitched dress, or an iridescent short skirt trimmed with twisted braid.

Contrasting strict and supple, short and long… XL blouses in white chiffon, knotted with a scout scarf, are worn with straight mini-skirts. Strapless chiffon sheath dresses with parquet pleating are finished with diaphanous coquillé flounces. A call to lightness and softness is illustrated by the dresses in crushed, frayed lace or in pleated silk. Dresses in waffled chiffon embroidered with crystal pendants accompany dresses with pleats, and others in ribbons and mesh with flounced sleeves that undulate like waves.