Sophisticated and essential, is how Gucci designer Frida Giannini described the elegant collection that kicked off Milan Fashion Week. Based on a simple elongated silhouette with artful cutouts and decorative flounces, accessorized by skinny high-heeled cage sandals and oversized 1970s costume jewelry, the collection came in bold shades of fuchsia, coral, kiwi green, mustard yellow and electric blue.

Total black or total white underlined the couture feel of the collection, as did the delicate prints reminiscent of Japanese floral wallpaper, penthouse pajama pants or the bell sleeves of a simple cocktail sheath.

But Giannini is very much a contemporary designer, and her couture came with an edge. This is seen in the sophisticated ankle straps of the sandals decorated with the logo horse bit, the plexiglass clutch bag and the snakeskin patterns for evening wear.