By Peter Yeap of Paris/MilanMFW
The FIFTIES era was a brilliant period for haute couture when master couturier Charles James, 'The Einstein of Fashion' was at the height of his powers, making coats, suits, cocktail dresses and especially ball gowns, creating a sartorial with a more classical, architectural aspect and a more understated wisdom of ostentatiousness.
In fact the Charles James: Beyond Fashion exhibition held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, provided the springboard for which Donatella Versace found inspiration to channel the classic silhouette for her own Atelier Versace collection showcased last night to kick off the Haute Couture Week in Paris.
I was inspired by the expression he found in fabric. It led me to think about new volumes, but through the eyes of Versace."
Donatella sent models down the runway with graphic eye makeup in blue and green shades for a daring look, for her Fall/Winter 2014/2015"deconstructed couture" collection. Versace signature corsets were worn together with layers, which seemed to have been intentionally uncovered, escorted with one-legged office pant suit, and a sky-high sandal with spiked metal heel.
A slightly eighties vibe were injected into the collection, creating a little bad girl attitude, which revealed slits and blue fur coats with a astounding organza, mink patchwork and spiked collar, while fabricated pullover and dressmaking were still the main themes of the season.
The reinterpretation of the British grand couturier Charles James' classic ball gowns into a voluminous pink silk-duchesse satin ball gown came slit up the middle which layered with the finest mesh Swarovski has ever produced, as worn by supermodels Daria Strokous and Stella Tennant.
"Ballgowns, a la Versace," Donatella added.
Jennifer Lopez was spotted on the front row, a star guests of Versace having also featured a strong suite of designs from the Italian house in her concert in the Bronx last month. This time, she was decked out in a white strapless gown straight from the collection.
See the complete runway looks
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