By Peter Yeap
Jeremy Scott was appointed the creative director of Moschino in late October last year, following the Italian label's 30th anniversary celebrations and on making his showstopping Fall Winter 2014/15 debut at Milan Fashion Week, had these words to say, "I don’t speak Italian but I do speak Moschino".
Well on his shirt, at least.
It seems, with his first collection, the 38 year old American designer has gotten everything right with Moschino.
As one of the leading anarchists for the return of fun to fashion, Scott presented a spectacular show that immediately set a different tone from founder Franco Moschino’s previous creations (who passed in 1995) and Rosella Jardini, whom Scott replaced.
"You’d think it would have a little more fun," Jeremy Scott said of fashion. "To me, that’s the point of it. Ultimately, we need no more clothes. We could function with everything that’s on the earth right now. So you have to have this reason to want things. To me, it’s to make you happy, and to me, that’s linked to humour."
Scott’s embrace of consumer culture in the name of Moschino was optimistic, rash, and creative.
In fact, it was superlative.
The reconfiguration of McDonald’s golden arches become the label’s instantly-iconic composition when Lily McMenamy, the first model down the runway, unveiled a skirt-suit finished with an instantaneously recognizable red and yellow of McDonald’s, along with an ingeniously-matching "Happy Meal" bag. Another model was also seen in a simulated "McUniform" came out with a McNugget box handbag, and also a sweatshirt with a golden arches bent into a re-intepreted "M".
McDonald’s was not the only brand given the post-modern pop fashion treatment.
Like Mr. Moschino, Scott echoed the work of other designers as well, particularly Chanel. A jacket with Chanel-style was made boorish (with the words "DRINK MOSCHINO" emblazoned across the back) paired with a cow-print dress and a chain bag was fashioned in the shape of a Styrofoam-like drink cup stamped with the altered double golden arches.
This show wasn't just a sentimental evoke. The series of Spongebob Squarepants outfits began popping up on fur coats, long-sleeved crop tops, knitwear and accessories, continued the irreverent approach by Scott.
There were also some old-school Moschino black leather, light blues and gold, variously worn with layered/repeating logo motif, finally giving way to a full leather-bound segment which will appeal to the label's traditionalists.
Finally, Jeremy closed the show with a parade of junk-food couture gowns constructed from prints reproducing the sweet packaging of everything. There were cheese nips and gummy bears, popcorn, beer can, and model Jourdan Dunn in a giant Moschino-fied Hershey’s bar dress.
The wedding gown on model Lindsey Wixson covered in a nutritious facts print was a fine finale touch.
See the complete runway looks
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