By Stanley Lui
Bridging the gap between fantasy and reality, Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have dreamt up a nocturnal and yet pensive Haute Couture collection for Valentino Fall Winter 2012/2013.
With the creative mindset of transforming luxury into a splendid story, they have embraced a new shade of darker navy (the polar opposite of vibrant red and far from impenetrable black) to signify the dense and profound mental landscape of the collection. The impalpable dresses and dramatic ball gowns, detailed capes and sleek dresses, slim-fit trousers and adamantine blouses are a part of a composited multiform concept.
Playing on the idea that beauty is the maximum expression of humanity, Chiuri and Piccioli seeks to revolutionised the luxury house, with a collection that uses the most classic fabrics, sewing techniques and iconography that deviates from the typical canons of style.
Starting with the intense and mysterious midnight blue that is combined with black, the collection graduated into brocade nuances of pink, yellow, followed by the signature Valentino red. There is this very fluid quality to the collection, demonstrated by the chiffon intarsia dress looking like a liquid cascade that solidifies for an instant around the waist and then continues to flow down. The tuxedo dissolves into an endless cape and is matched with a skirt.
The stylistic approach resonates with the concept of contrasts with short dresses in brocade (the epitome of grace) making a bold statement with their architectural silhouettes. As a result of this 'magical alchemic approach' to the Haute Couture creation, heavier materials such as the brocade, velvet, chiffon, and double cashmere become as light and ephemeral as air.
The dazzling splendor of the collection is brought out through the shimmering beading embellishments while the floral embroidery creates textural color. Blending well with the fabric, they create a contrast between the opposites of both the hard and softer elements. Imagination molds the material with the shapes seemingly to form and follow around the body in the purest and most natural way; as though these clothings have never been touched by the scissors.
Silhouettes are in it's quintessence minimalistic with longer silhouettes used to elongate the figure. The viewer is immediately drawn in by this subtle and never ostentatious virtuosity which frees us to dream of new paths based on our different perspectives and unique cultures.
Celebrating traditional craftsmanship as the ultimate standard for luxury, the collection searches for greater heights through the pursuit of fantasy and imagination where new realities are then produced.
The spirit of time and longevity enters the atelier and is condensed into an effortless and essential Haute Couture line that is classically Italian while the certain lightness makes it a collection that is unmistakeably Valentino.
See more photos from the fashion show here: //senatus.net/album/view/7042/
