By Stanley Lui
Integrating both the opulent luxury of Parisian couture culture with the clothing elements inspired by the native tribes of Africa and Italy, designer Riccardo Tisci mixes both gypsy culture with the urban vibe of the city to produce this rather enigmatic Haute Couture Fall Winter 2012/2013 collection for Givenchy.
In a befitting continuation of the earlier Spring Summer Haute Couture 2012 collection, the models looked as though they had just stepped out from the basketball court after a fresh change of clothing to which they had been wearing their iconic nose rings, on to the resplendent school backyard for this photo shoot.
Richly textured and yet elaborately designed, the materials and techniques chosen interact with the graphical motifs to create a collection marked by the generous use of beads, fur, fringes, cutouts and embroidery.
The intricate beading work here is evident in the open toe sandal boots, the brown gradated beaded cardigan as well as the red beaded motif cape elongated by a series of African red and black beaded strings.
The striking tribal color palette here is complimented by the more neutral tones of coffee and caramel with the more imposing and monochromatic figures characterised by the braided nappa cocoon-capes.
With one of the looks punctured by a set of extensive metal rings from which the floor length strips of leather hangs, the leather capes are an elegant transmutation of the classical punk rocker vibe while the tassels of leather or fringes of silk on the column dresses give way to a more womanly touch to an otherwise very dark and masculine looking collection.
The mink which Mr. Riccardo Tisci calls 'plucked', is laser cut or shaved to form a fur lace or a patterned motif to give a geometric dimension to the collection. These shapes are then lacquered or embellished with pinkish red inlays or crystals which are encased in leather.
The tribal short kimonos with the stole-like sleeves in leather or fur emphasise the indigenous aspect of the gypsies while the science fiction looking shades adds a totally different and futuristic edge to the looks of the models.
A collision perhaps between opposites that would never meet, the collection showcases the vibrancy of tribal fashion magnified by the intricate dexterity of the Givenchy couturiers to reveal a very powerful, luxurious and yet beautiful side of the modern Givenchy woman.
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